The journal
Croatia, in long form.
Essays, walking guides, and field notes from our editors on the ground. No top-10 listicles, no affiliate filler, just the stories we'd send to a friend before their first trip.
City Guide · 12 min read
48 Hours in Dubrovnik Without the Cruise Crowds: A Local's 2-Day Itinerary
A field-tested two-day Dubrovnik itinerary built around when locals actually walk, swim and eat, not when the cruise ships dock. Includes the best time to walk the City Walls, where to find empty beaches and which konobas are worth the climb.
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Long Read · 16 min read
Eating the Dalmatian Coast: A Field Guide to Konobas, Peka and the Food Locals Actually Eat
From peka and pašticada to pošip and prošek, this is the long-form guide to Dalmatian food, what to order, where grandmothers approve, and how to read a konoba menu like a local on the Croatian coast.
Island Life · 13 min read
Hvar Beyond the Marina: Lavender Fields, Hidden Coves and the Island Day-Trippers Never See
Skip the beach clubs, rent a scooter, and discover the other Hvar, UNESCO-listed Greek fields, abandoned lavender villages, plavac mali vineyards and coves the road doesn't reach. A complete guide to the real Hvar island.
Outdoors · 10 min read
Plitvice Lakes in One Day: The Walking Loop That Actually Works
The complete one-day Plitvice Lakes itinerary, when to enter, which trail to take, where to park, and exactly how to avoid the 11 a.m. tour-bus tide. Trail map, timings and the photo spots that matter.
City Guide · 12 min read
Living in a Palace: How to Read Split's Old Town in a Single Walk
Diocletian's 1,700-year-old palace walls now hide bakeries, bars, laundromats and 3,000 residents. A self-guided walking tour of the Roman city that simply refused to be abandoned.
Slow Travel · 9 min read
Cavtat: A Three-Day Argument for the Quieter Side of the Croatian Coast
Why Dubrovnik's southern neighbour is the south-coast base most travellers miss, slower, cheaper, more beautiful, and 40 minutes from the city walls when you want them.
On Water · 8 min read
A Day on the Pakleni Islands by Small Boat: The Right Way to Do Hvar's Archipelago
Charter a small skippered boat for the day, leave the party catamarans behind, and rewrite your idea of an Adriatic island day. The complete guide to Palmižana, Stipanska, Jerolim and the empty coves in between.
Plan Your Trip · 9 min read
Best Time to Visit Croatia: Month-by-Month Weather, Crowds & Prices (2026)
Locally written, month-by-month: weather, sea temperature, crowds, prices and the **two shoulder windows** that quietly beat July and August on every measure that matters.
Getting Around · 7 min read
How to Get from Split to Hvar: Ferry, Catamaran, Prices & Tips (2026)
Three boats, two ports, one confusing booking site. Here is the **clean version** with current prices, journey times, and exactly which ticket to buy for which kind of trip.
Plan Your Trip · 8 min read
Croatia in October: Is It Worth Visiting? Weather, Swimming & Half-Price Hotels
**Half-price hotels, 22°C sea, empty Dubrovnik walls.** October is the month the locals don't really want you to know about. Here is the honest version, the good, the cardigan-shaped, and what's already closed.
Getting Around · 8 min read
Dubrovnik to Plitvice: 4 Ways to Travel (Bus, Car, Tour, Flight)
Plitvice is **560 km from Dubrovnik**, the kind of distance people underestimate at the booking stage. Here are the four sensible ways to bridge it, ranked.
Plan Your Trip · 8 min read
Is Croatia Expensive? Real 2026 Daily Budget for Couples, Families & Backpackers
Since Croatia joined the eurozone, prices have crept up and the rumour has stuck. Here is what **a coffee, a konoba dinner, a ferry, and a night in a sea-view room** actually cost in 2026.
Plan Your Trip · 6 min read
What to Pack for Croatia: A Realistic Mediterranean Packing List
**Water shoes, a power bank, a paper map of the old towns.** A locally written packing list that assumes you know what underwear looks like and focuses on what's actually different about Croatia.
Islands · 9 min read
Best Islands in Croatia for First-Time Visitors: Hvar vs Brač vs Vis Compared
Three islands, three different trips. **Hvar** is for going out, **Brač** is for families and beach photos, **Vis** is for travellers who want the Croatia of forty years ago. Here's how to choose.
Itinerary · 11 min read
Croatia Road Trip Itinerary: 7, 10 and 14 Days from Zagreb to Dubrovnik
The classic Croatia road trip is **Zagreb → Plitvice → Zadar → Split → Hvar → Dubrovnik**. Here is how to do it in 7, 10 or 14 days without spending half the trip in a rental car.
Nature · 7 min read
Plitvice or Krka? An Honest Comparison for Waterfall Lovers
**One park is bigger, one lets you swim.** A clear, honest comparison of Plitvice and Krka, so you can pick the right one for your trip, or convince yourself to do both.
City Guide · 9 min read
Zagreb in 2 Days: A Local's Weekend Itinerary
Croatia's quiet capital. **Coffee, Austro-Hungarian streets, a funicular, and an Advent market that's quietly the best in Europe.** Here's a weekend that locals would actually recognise.
City Guide · 8 min read
Rovinj Travel Guide: Istria's Prettiest Old Town in 2 Days
**The Venetian Croatia.** Rovinj is what Hvar looked like before the yachts came. Two days here, with truffles, oysters, and the small islands you can swim to.
Plan Your Trip · 7 min read
Croatia Visa & Entry Rules for 2026 (Schengen, ETIAS, Passport Stamps)
Croatia is **Schengen since 2023** and the new **ETIAS** system rolls in during 2026. The rules in plain English: who needs what, how long, and what changes at the airport.
Food · 8 min read
Cheap Eats in Croatia: Burek, Ćevapi, Peka & What Food Actually Costs
**€3.50 burek, €9 ćevapi, €15 grilled fish.** Where Croatians actually eat, what to order, and the rules that keep your meal bill the size locals pay.
Beaches · 10 min read
Best Beaches in Croatia: 12 Pebble, Sand & Secret Coves Worth the Trip
**Most Croatian beaches are pebble, not sand.** Here are twelve coves worth the trip, the famous ones, the local ones, and the half-day boat ride that is the real point of a Croatian holiday.