
Lika Highlands
Plitvice Lakes
Sixteen turquoise lakes, ninety waterfalls, one wooden boardwalk.
Introduction
Plitvice is what people picture when they imagine a Croatian fairytale, except it's real, and it's been a national park since 1949. Travertine dams have built up over millennia, creating a staircase of lakes the colour of a swimming pool, threaded with falls that change every year as the rock keeps growing. The trick is to start early, walk the right loop, and stay overnight inside the park.
Highlights
What you came for.
01
Veliki Slap
Croatia's tallest waterfall (78 m). The classic photo spot is on the lower path between Entry 1 and Kozjak Lake.
02
Upper Lakes loop
Quieter than the lower section; longer, deeper colours, fewer selfie sticks. Allow 3, 4 hours.
03
Park boats and trains
Included in the ticket. The electric boat across Kozjak is the only way between Upper and Lower lakes.
04
Sunrise entry
Buy tickets online for the 7 am slot. You'll have the boardwalks essentially to yourself for two hours.
Sample itinerary
A trip, written out.
Practical
The bits that make it work.
Best time
May for full waterfalls, October for autumn colour, January for a frozen wonderland. Avoid noon-to-3 pm in July and August.
Getting in
Bus from Zagreb (2.5h) or Zadar (2h). No train. Best done as an overnight, not a day trip from the coast.
Where to stay
Hotel Jezero or Plitvice (inside the park) for early entry; villages of Mukinje and Jezerce for cheaper rooms with park access.
Skip
Swimming. It's strictly forbidden in all park waters. Krka National Park (near Šibenik) is where you can.