Hvar Archipelago
Pakleni Islands
Twenty pine-cloaked islets five minutes off Hvar Town.
Introduction
The name 'Pakleni' has nothing to do with hell, it comes from paklina, the pine resin once used to caulk boats. The archipelago is essentially Hvar Town's back garden: a string of low limestone islands wrapped in Aleppo pine, ringed with white-pebble coves, reachable by a constant ferry of small water taxis from the marina. Bring water shoes, a book, and someone you like.
Highlights
What you came for.
01
Palmižana
The biggest island, with restaurants, an arboretum, and the calm bay of Vinogradišće for an easy swim day.
02
Jerolim
Naturist-friendly, but the coves on the north side are open to all and almost always empty.
03
Stipanska
Home of Carpe Diem beach club, loud and €€€. The island's far side has quieter rocks.
04
Sailboat charters
Hvar Town has dozens of small operators. A skippered half-day costs €350, €500 and beats every ferry.
Sample itinerary
A trip, written out.
Practical
The bits that make it work.
Best time
June and September. July, August the most popular bays fill by 11 am.
Getting in
Water taxis run from Hvar Town harbour 8 am, 8 pm in season. No tickets, pay the captain on board.
Where to stay
There's one small hotel on Palmižana; everyone else stays in Hvar Town and day-trips.
Skip
Crowded organised 'three-island tours' that spend 30 minutes per stop. Charter a small boat instead, even alone.